Skip to main content

When is the best time to water greens?



Nice contrast
I was always taught that the best time to water greens was right before the greens mowers went out. The theory was that this would reduce the time that the plant was wet and would therefore result in less disease. So from my start in the turf industry this is what I did. I am very focused on reducing my reliance on pesticides to control disease so whatever I can do to accomplish this goal, I try.

I was inspired by a post by Dr. Micah Woods a few years ago questioning the deep and infrequent irrigation regime vs the light and frequent. He made a great case that light and frequent isn't necessarily an inferior way to water. The great thing about this way of thinking is that it left me knowing that my way of irrigating wasn't inferior. It also got me questioning a lot of things about irrigation that weren't necessarily true.

This year while I was setting up our irrigation system I started to think about the timing of when I watered greens. I was thinking about the way we have always done it and it just plain didn't make any sense to me. If you have ever been on the course as the sun is setting you will know that the turf becomes covered in dew and guttation fluid. So basically every night that it wasn't raining, the grass was covered in stagnant sugary liquid anyway. So from a leaf wettness standpoint, there was no benefit to watering last. If anything, waiting until the last minute to irrigate the greens only extended the time that the dew and guttation stood undisturbed on the leaf surface. This is a problem if you believe that dew can lead to increased disease.
Too green for my liking despite using half as much nitrogen this year as in previous years.
So then I thought about what the advantages of watering greens first before anything else would be. What would be the advantage of watering greens just as the sun was going down, or at midnight? Theoretically it would knock the dew off the leaf blade and break the stagnation. This stagnation or still water is probably what leads to disease. At least it sounds good in theory.

It would also leave the surface of the greens less wet when we were mowing. Less water pickup into the baskets and less wear from driving equipment on freshly watered turf. Theoretically it would also give the water more time to move down into the soil before being used by the plants. If this water has more time to flow into the soil it also should give me more accurate readings on my moisture meter too. Lots of theories haha!

It would also give the plant the water it required sooner, reducing the time that the plant was in a moisture deficit. Apparently I'm not the only one who thinks this way.


Maintaining the greens has been carefree and almost easy despite record breaking drought, heat and a
mostly broken irrigation system.
So this year I have scheduled my greens to be watered first each night. The result? Well this trial has been far from scientific but I can share my experience. The greens are still alive. I haven't required a fungicide application since we started irrigating in early May except for my regular phosphite apps. Despite going through a record breaking heatwave and drought period the greens have never been better! Is it because of the time of night that I water greens? Maybe. It certainly hasn't hurt things and if anything it has only made things easier.

Popular posts from this blog

Turfgrass speedo is still my most important tool for managing turf growth after 4 years.

It wasn't the easiest year for growing grass , but the conditions were still pretty good. Almost 4 years ago exactly, I came up with the idea of comparing actual clipping yields to the "ideal" clipping yield or the clipping yield adjusted using the Growth Potential Model . Since then, it has proved to be a much more useful tool to manage growth than I originally thought .  It has been almost a decade since I started making observations on plant health and playability and how it relates to the clipping yield. I have been constantly searching for ways to get the growth rate right as often as I can and this tool seems to be the best way I have seen so far, and might ultimately, be the best way going forward. To prove this point I will discuss in a future post, the success I've had with pest control in the past few years (for the most part (Not withstanding the times where I think my greens are dead but they actually aren't...thanks T)). Never needed less There are

Do you have enough?

I recently discussed how we can use fertilizer ratios to simplify how much fertilizer we apply to help us keep above the MLSN guidelines . When we get a soil test done it is a static amount of nutrients found in the soil. Even if you are above the MLSN guidelines at the time of testing, it doesn't guarantee that you will remain at or above the guidelines as the grass grows and consumes nutrients. There is math that you can use to determine exactly how much nutrient you need to apply to ensure that you remain at or above the MLSN guidelines. For many, this is much too complicated. For that reason I made a quick cheat sheet to help you determine how much of each nutrient you can expect to use each year based off a few different annual nitrogen rates. Nutrient use is based primarily on nitrogen use so the left 2 columns are a few different nitrogen rates. The columns for each nutrient are in PPM and are designed to help you look at your current soil test PPM (mehlich 3) and determin

How to quantify nutrient content in liquid fertilizer

In a recent post, I discussed how it was actually cheaper to spray soluble vs granular fertilizer. What about if we use pre-mixed liquid fertilizer? How do we even figure out how much nutrient we are applying with pre-mixed liquid fertilizer?  Before I learned that you could simply dissolve soluble fertilizer in water and apply it in a sprayer, I was a big user of pre-mixed liquid fertilizers. One of the issues I initially had was figuring out exactly how much of each nutrient I was applying. The math wasn't as straightforward is it was with granular fertilizers. It turns out, it's actually not that difficult but requires an extra step.  First, we need to convert the liquid volume into a mass. Many products will have the product density displayed on the label or you can look in the Safety Data Sheet (SDS) for that information as well. No SDS? Should you be using products without an SDS? Even if this information isn't included on the label it is very easy to figure out. All